Engine lubrication gas 53 with a centrifuge. Key indicators and regulatory data

05.09.202327.05.2017

Engine lubrication system combined: under pressure and spraying.

oil radiator
rocker axis cavity
channel in the block head
oil filter
channel in block
main oil line
hole in the distributor drive housing
cavity
oil pump
oil pump pressure reducing valve
fourth camshaft journal
oil receiver
safety valve
oil cooler valve
second camshaft journal

Oil is sucked through the oil receiver by the oil pump and, after passing through the filter, is fed into the oil line. A pressure reducing valve is installed on the pump. A safety valve is installed in the filter spacer, allowing oil to pass into the line in addition to the filter if its resistance is excessively high (clogged, starting a cold engine). The crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings, camshaft bearings, camshaft thrust flange, rocker arm bushings and upper rod ends are lubricated under pressure.

To the heads of the block for lubrication of the rocker arm bushings and the upper tips of the rods, oil is supplied in a pulsating flow from the second 15 (to the right head) and from the fourth 11 (to the left head) camshaft journals through channels 5 in the block and 3 in the head.

Spray lubricates cylinders, connecting rod bushings, piston rings, valves, tappets and camshaft cams.

The camshaft drive gears are lubricated with oil coming from the oil line through a tube, and the ignition sensor-distributor drive and its gear are lubricated with oil coming from cavity 8 located between the fifth journal of the camshaft and the plug in the block.

It is strictly forbidden to operate if the oil level in the engine crankcase is below the O mark on the indicator rod. It is necessary to constantly maintain the oil level in the engine crankcase between the O and P indicator marks, as close as possible to the P mark. To more accurately determine the oil level, start the engine and, after letting it run for 3-4 minutes, stop it. After 10 minutes, take a measurement.

The oil pressure in the engine when the car is moving in direct gear at a speed of 60 km/h must be at least 250 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm2) with the oil cooler turned off and the engine well warmed up.

When starting and warming up a cold engine, oil pressure can reach 500-550 kPa (5-5.5 kgf/cm2).

When the oil pressure in the engine drops to 40-80 kPa (0.4-0.8 kgf/cm2), the emergency oil pressure indicator lights up on the instrument panel.

It is permissible for the indicator to light up at a low crankshaft speed in idle mode. If the lubrication system is working properly, the indicator will go out when the rotation speed increases. If the indicator lights up at medium and high engine speeds, it indicates the presence of a malfunction, and until it is eliminated, further operation of the vehicle must be stopped.

When the air temperature is above 20 °C, it is necessary to turn on the oil cooler by opening the tap located on the left side of the engine. When the radiator is turned on, the faucet handle is directed along the hose. At lower temperatures the radiator should be turned off. However, regardless of the air temperature, when driving in particularly difficult conditions, with a heavy load and low speeds, it is also necessary to turn on the oil cooler. Oil enters the radiator through the safety valve. This valve opens at a pressure of about 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2), and thus oil circulates through the radiator only if there is a pressure in the oil line greater than 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2). After passing through the oil cooler, the oil is drained into the engine crankcase.

Every time when adjusting the gap between valves and rocker arms, as well as during TO-2, it is necessary to check whether oil is reaching the rocker arm axles. To do this, you need to start the engine and make sure that the oil flows out of the hole in the adjusting screw and flows down the rods. If oil does not flow, it is necessary to clean the channels as follows.

From the head in which oil does not flow to the rocker arm axles, remove the axle with rocker arms and struts assemblies, unscrew the stud securing the rocker arm axle (front on the right head, rear on the left head) and through its hole blow compressed air through the oil supply channels to head, slowly turning the crankshaft until the characteristic sound of air escaping into the oil appears.

In this article I decided to write about the repair of the GAZ 53 pump. This is not entirely a deviation from the main direction on the site, since these repair kits are also suitable for repairing the pump on the UAZ. And in general the procedure itself is similar.

There are several symptoms that the gas 53 pump needs repair:

coolant leak;
strong shaft play in bearings;
boiling of the coolant after a short period of engine operation.

If the first two points are less clear, then I’ll explain a little about the last one. The GAZ 53 impeller is now mainly made of plastic or textolite and, unlike cast iron, has less strength. The bushing becomes loose, or even the blades break. And this happens after the bearings become loose and the gas 53 pump impeller begins to cling to the housing. An impeller with broken petals does not move liquid well, which leads to its rapid boiling.

Instruments

In this case, you will need tools not only to disassemble the pump itself, but also to remove it.

key for 12 - 13;
key for 17 - 19;
hammer;
pliers.

Gas pump repair 53

After the pump is removed, repair the water pump gas 53 in order to remove the impeller. If it is made of plastic or textolite, it is better to break it. In this case, I didn’t rack my brain, I was going to install a new one and just broke it. I had a cast iron impeller for the pump.

The bushing from the impeller remained on the shaft

For those who are simply going to change the bearings and the impeller of the Gas 53 pump is needed intact, then the question of removing it without damaging it is very difficult. If the pump has not been disassembled for a long time, then we can say in advance that it has become stuck to the shaft and it is better to prepare by purchasing an impeller in advance.

Then he heated the shaft with the remains of the impeller with a burner and poured water on it. Don't worry about bearings, you still need to install new ones. The procedure had to be repeated twice.

Remove the retaining ring from the pump housing and knock out the remaining shaft with bearings towards the fan. The front bearing of the water pump 20803-KU (part number 20803) will be knocked out along with the shaft, but the water pump bearing (rear) 20703-KU (part number 14-1307082-20) will remain and will have to be knocked out separately.

The bearings are closed on one side and must be installed with the closed side facing out. That is, it is clear that the open part will be inside for access to lubricant from the grease nipple.

Most often it is the front bearing that fails.

In advance, clean the housing of the gas 53 water pump from gasket residues and, if possible, sand it with an emery disc. Clean the bearing seats and retaining ring.

We begin the assembly by installing the shaft with bearings, a pulley with a nut, a repair kit and the impeller of the gas 53 water pump.

Be more careful when assembling the repair kit (cuffs, springs, seals, etc.). After assembly, do not forget to syringe the pump through a grease nipple, otherwise you will forget to do this and the bearings will not work for a long time.

Replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53 is considered a fairly simple procedure. The car owner can do it himself if he has basic technical skills and some tools. Taking into account the specifics of the cleaning system, the filter element must be changed every time along with an oil change.

When to replace the oil filter and how to choose it

A pressing issue in replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53 is the frequency of the procedure. In this aspect, they are guided by a total figure of 15 thousand kilometers. If operating conditions are interpreted as severe, this period is reduced to 10 thousand km.

The filter in a car engine is changed along with the oil, so the main indicator indicating the need for replacement is the condition of the lubricant. Discoloration, the appearance of impurities and sediment, a burning smell - all this indicates that the lubricant has expired.

Some car owners also identify other signs: extraneous noise in the engine, vibrations, jolts, malfunctions. However, experts do not recommend waiting for these factors to appear - usually they already indicate the consequences of untimely oil and filter changes.

To avoid costly repairs of engine components, preventive replacement of the oil filter and lubricant is recommended every year. The importance of regular preventative checks is also emphasized.

The main emphasis is on measuring the oil level, especially after a recent replacement. The current level in a normal and heated state should not go beyond the marks indicated on the dipstick.

Preparation for replacement and necessary tools

Preparatory process Replacing the oil filter in GAZ 53 is conventionally divided into three main aspects:

purchase of new components and consumables;
choosing a level place to work;
warming up the engine.

When it comes to purchases, they highlight not only new oil and filter, but also related parts. To do this, the entire system is checked for wear and replacement of faulty connections is purchased.

Particular attention is paid to gaskets, seals, and fasteners. It is recommended to purchase such parts only from official suppliers. When purchasing, pay attention to the original article numbers and manufacturer’s recommendations.

To drain and fill the lubricant, the car owner will need to park the car on level ground. If possible, use a repair pit or overpass to work with the oil filter. In the absence of them, you will need a powerful jack and supports.

Warming up the engine is necessary for better circulation of the lubricant. However, taking this factor into account, pay attention to safety precautions. To prevent thermal and chemical burns, it is recommended to use protective clothing and rubber gloves.

In the context of such regulations, to replace the oil filter on a GAZ 53 you will need the following equipment:

a set of screwdrivers and keys, gates with attachments, feeler gauge, pliers;
overalls and gloves, clean rags or lint-free rags;
container for collecting used lubricating fluid;
new oil, funnel for filling;
new oil filter, gaskets, parts and other components to replace faulty connections.

The procedure for replacing the filter element is not considered difficult; it takes 30-40 minutes, taking into account draining the oil and warming up the engine. However, the driver is required to have certain experience and knowledge of the system; if necessary, it is recommended to read the technical documentation.

Oil filter replacement process

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 53:

after the engine has warmed up, uncork the filler neck in the engine compartment of the car;
at the bottom of the machine, remove the engine protection, if any;
Place a container for used lubricant under the drain and carefully unscrew the plug;
While the liquid is draining, check the condition of the plug; it is recommended to change the washer in any case;
after draining, move the container under the filter, unscrew it by hand, if that doesn’t work, use a special tool;
carefully disassemble the oil filter, it is recommended to remember the order in which the parts and cartridge are removed;
all components and the casing are cleaned of lubricant residues, a new filter element is installed, the rubber seals are changed and lubricated;
Next, the filter is assembled in the reverse order and screwed into place; during installation, pay attention to the rubber bands - they should not come out of the grooves intended for them;
the system is restored to its original form by plugging the drain and checking the tightness of the connections;
new oil is poured into the filler neck in a volume equivalent to the drained amount of used lubricant;
The engine is warmed up for 10-15 minutes until the lubricating fluid fills all the mechanisms involved.

After warming up, check the oil level, as well as the entire system for loose connections and leaks. It is recommended to carry out a similar check after the first days of using the car.

Also during this period, the condition of the lubricant is monitored. If it quickly changes color or sediment appears, there is a problem with the quality of the product or the internal state of the mechanisms. If possible, undergo additional diagnostics by specialists; in the future, it may require not only replacing the oil filter, but also a full repair.

Differences in replacing the oil filter in other GAZ models

For some car owners, the issue of replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 66 and other models of this car brand becomes relevant. Experts emphasize that the general procedure remains the same for all machines.

Taking this factor into account, replacing the oil filter on a GAZ 3307 is carried out according to the same algorithm as in the GAZ 53. The main differences are associated with the assembly of the car and the location of the components. However, since these aspects may vary within the same model range, the emphasis is on familiarity with the technical documentation and the experience of the car owner.

Also among the nuances of the general procedure are consumable articles. Despite the interchangeability of some components, it is recommended to check the technical parameters of the parts before purchasing.

The GAZ-53 engine lubrication system (Fig. 1) is combined: under pressure, splashing and gravity. The oil in the engine oil sump is sucked into the oil pump 9 through the oil receiver 12.

From it, oil under pressure is supplied through channels in the block to the full-flow oil filter 4, and from there to the main oil line 6 of the engine. From the main line of the GAZ-53 lubrication system, oil flows through channels in the cylinder block to the main bearings of the crankshaft and camshaft bearings.

Through drillings in the crankshaft, oil from the main bearings flows into the cavities of the connecting rod journals and through drillings in the connecting rod journals to the connecting rod bearings. In the cavities of the connecting rod journals, the oil undergoes additional purification due to centrifugal forces.

Fig.1. Lubrication system GAZ-53

1 - oil radiator; 2 - cavity of the rocker arm axis; 3 - channel in the cylinder head; 4 - oil filter; 5 - channel in the cylinder block; 6 - main oil line; 7 - hole in the distributor drive housing; 8 - cavity; 9 - oil pump; 10 - pressure reducing valve; 11 - fourth camshaft journal; 12- oil receiver; 13 - safety valve; 14 - oil cooler tap, 15 - second camshaft journal

From the second and fourth camshaft supports, oil flows through channels in the GAZ-53 block and heads to the rocker arm axes. From the internal cavity of the rocker arm axis, oil flows through drillings to the rocker arm bearings.

Further along the grooves in the rocker arm bushings, drillings in the rocker arms and adjusting screws - to the upper tips of the rods. Flowing down the rods, the oil reaches the lower tips and flows through the holes in the pushers into the oil sump, lubricating the pusher guides and their ends.

The thrust flange of the GAZ-53 camshaft is lubricated through a flat and a hole in the front camshaft support. Drive gears through a tube from the main oil line.

The drive of the ignition distributor, the oil pump and its gears are lubricated with oil coming from cavity 8 located between the fifth camshaft support journal and the plug in the cylinder block. Oil is supplied to other parts that require lubrication by splashing or gravity flow.

The oil pressure in the GAZ-53 lubrication system when the vehicle is moving in direct gear at a speed of 55 km/h must be at least 250 kPa with the oil cooler turned off and the engine well warmed up. When starting and warming up a cold engine, the oil pressure can reach 500 - 550 kPa.

When the oil pressure in the oil line of the GAZ-53 engine drops to 40 - 80 kPa, the emergency oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel lights up.

It is permissible for the indicator to light up at a low crankshaft speed in idle mode. If the lubrication system of the GAZ-53 engine is working properly, the indicator goes out when the rotation speed increases.

If the indicator lights up at medium and high engine speeds, it indicates a malfunction. Until it is eliminated, further operation of the vehicle is not allowed.

When the ambient temperature is above 20 °C and when driving in particularly difficult conditions, it is necessary to turn on the oil cooler by opening the tap located on the left side of the engine. When the radiator is turned on, the faucet handle is directed along the axis of the hose.

Oil enters the radiator only when the tap is open through the safety valve. This valve opens at a pressure in the GAZ-53 lubrication system of about 100 kPa. After passing through the radiator, the oil is drained into the oil sump.

The oil sump of the GAZ-53 engine is made of sheet steel, stamped, and attached to the lower plane of the cylinder block with studs.

The crankcase flange is sealed with a cork gasket. At the bottom of the crankcase there is a drain plug sealed with a metal-asbestos gasket. The oil receiver is mesh, non-floating type.

Fig.2. Oil pump GAZ-53

The GAZ-53 oil pump (Fig. 2) is a single-section gear type, driven into rotation by the ignition distributor drive through an intermediate shaft.

The housing of the GAZ-53 oil pump is made of aluminum alloy, the cover is made of cast iron. The cover contains a pressure relief valve that protects the lubrication system from excessive pressure. The valve is adjusted at the factory and its adjustment during operation is prohibited.

Fig.3. Oil filter GAZ-53

1 - filter housing (upper part); 2 - spring; 3- support washer; 4 - sealing ring; 5 - filter element; 6 - filter housing tube; 7-bypass valve plug; 8- filter housing gasket; 9 - bypass valve gasket; 10 - bypass valve spring, 11 - bypass valve ball; 12 - oil filter rod; 13 - filter element gasket; 14 - filter housing (lower part); 15 - gasket of the lower part of the filter housing; 16 - filter spacer; 17-washer; 18 - connecting nut; 19 - sealing gasket; 20 - connecting fitting; 21 - sealing gasket; 22 - sealing ring

The GAZ-53 oil filter (Fig. 3) is full-flow with a replaceable paper filter element Regotmas, consists of the oil filter itself and its spacer. The spacer contains a bypass valve that is activated when the oil filter element is completely clogged.

In this case, the oil enters the engine line, bypassing the filter element. The spacer is attached to the inlet pipe with a special fitting and sealed with a paronite gasket and a rubber ring.

When the GAZ-53 filter element is clogged, oil flows from the spacer fitting through holes B into the safety valve area, opens the ball valve and, without cleaning, enters the spacer cavity, from where it goes into the oil line. Thus, the bypass valve in the spacer protects the engine from running without lubrication.

Fig.4. Drive of the ignition distributor and oil pump GAZ-53

The drive of the ignition distributor and oil pump GAZ-53 (Fig. 4) consists of housing 1, into which two bushings made of sheet bronze are pressed. Roller 2 rotates in the bushings, at one end of which there is a slot for the shank of the ignition distributor roller.

The slot is offset relative to the axis of the roller, due to which the distributor can be installed in only one position. The drive shaft is secured against axial movements by a retaining ring 7. A spring ring 6 is also installed.

Driven gear 5 is secured with a pin at the lower end of the shaft. The drive gear is located on the camshaft. Two washers are installed between the end of the housing and the driven gear: steel 3 and aluminum 4.

At the lower end of the GAZ-53 distributor drive shaft there is a hexagonal hole into which hexagonal shaft 8 of the oil pump drive fits. This roller is secured with the same pin as the driven gear.

The lower end of the hexagonal shaft fits freely into the hexagonal hole in the end of the shaft of the GAZ-53 oil pump. If the oil pump jams for any reason, pin 9 is cut off, and the drive shaft and engine stop.

The oil cooler of the GAZ-53 engine is made of a thick-walled aluminum tube, formed into a coil with five straight sections. In straight sections, the oil cooler has special cooling fins made by knurling. The radiator is connected to the engine by rubber hoses.

A drop in pressure in the lubrication system can be caused by wear of oil pump parts or crankshaft and camshaft bearings. With significant contributions, the pump begins to operate noisily.

To identify pump faults, it is removed from the engine and disassembled. But they begin to disassemble the GAZ-53 oil pump only after checking the condition of the pressure relief valve, since it may cause incorrect pressure in the oil system (the spring is weakened, the plunger is stuck, etc.).

The pressure reducing valve is located in the cover of the GAZ-53 oil pump. The force of the pressure reducing valve spring when compressing it to a length of 40 mm should be in the range of 43.5 - 48.5 N. Placing washers under the spring is prohibited. The faulty spring is replaced with a new one.

To disassemble the oil pump, unscrew the two fastening nuts and remove the pump from the cylinder block along with the gasket; unscrew the four bolts securing the oil pump cover and remove the cover with the gasket; remove the oil pump driven gear from the housing; remove the pump shaft with drive gear assembly. After disassembling the pump, all its parts are thoroughly washed, dried and inspected.

If wear from the gear is found on the surface of the GAZ-53 oil pump cover, then grind the surface of the cover until traces of wear are destroyed.

In case of major malfunctions, the pump is replaced with a new one. During repairs, the necessary clearances and tensions in the mating parts must be ensured.

When replacing a roller with a new one, as well as other types of repairs, keep in mind the following:

The distance from the end of the roller with a hexagonal hole to the upper end of the oil pump drive gear should be (42.5 + 0.15) mm;

A hole with a diameter of 4+0.5 mm for the gear mounting pin on the pump shaft is drilled to a depth of (23±0.5) mm at a distance of 20 mm from the end of the gear. The protrusion of the pin above the plane of the tooth cavity is not allowed;

When pressing the driven gear axis out of the pump housing, the housing is heated to a temperature of 100-120 °C;

To press the axle into the pump casing, the casing is heated to a temperature of 160 - 175 ° C, and the axle is cooled in dry ice to a temperature of - 70 ° C;

When pressing the driven gear axis into the housing, press the axis until it stops (Fig. 6).

To assemble the GAZ-53 oil pump, install the roller assembly with the drive gear into the oil pump housing; install the driven gear on the axis in the pump housing; The oil pump cover with a gasket is placed on the housing; secure the cover to the pump body with four bolts.

When assembling the oil pump, always change the paronite or cardboard gasket of the cover (their thickness is 0.3 mm). It is unacceptable to use shellac or other sealing agents, or to increase the thickness of the gasket, as this reduces the performance of the pump.

Before installing the GAZ-53 oil pump on the engine, it must be filled with oil, since a dry pump at the very beginning of engine operation will not supply oil to the rubbing surfaces, which will lead to their scuffing and failure.

When disassembling the GAZ-53 ignition distributor drive, remove the spring ring and remove the safety pin, remove the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive, remove the retaining ring and gear from the shaft, remove the thrust washers and remove the shaft from the distributor drive housing.

To assemble the ignition distributor drive, before assembly, all drive parts are blown with compressed air and wiped with clean cloths.

The shaft assembly is lubricated with clean engine oil, inserted into the distributor drive housing and tested for ease of rotation by hand. Thrust washers are installed on the roller, first steel 3, then aluminum alloy 4.

Install the gear onto the drive shaft. A hexagonal oil pump drive shaft is inserted into the hexagonal hole at the end of the GAZ-53 distributor drive shaft, a pin is installed in a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm, a spring ring is installed in the groove on the gear hub, and a retaining ring is installed in the groove of the drive shaft.

Check the ease of rotation of the roller by hand, the gap between the thrust washer and the end of the drive gear, which should be 0.15 - 0.40 mm; The displacement of the center of the tooth cavity of the distributor drive gear relative to the axis of the roller groove is permissible deviation ± 2°.

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GAZ-53 engine parts

The lubrication system, and in particular the oil pump of a GAZ 53 or any other car, plays a vital role in the normal operation of the internal combustion engine. Without lubrication, it will only work for a few minutes before it seizes or, worse, destroys its parts. Remember, the oil pressure sensor in the system will always signal to the driver that something is wrong with the lubrication system.

Appearance of GAZ-53

In order to take timely measures to repair or maintain a truck, it is advisable to have some knowledge of its technical characteristics, features, operating rules and car repair skills.

This is what the oil pump looks like on a GAZ-53

It is important to remember that GAZ 53 trucks are prohibited from operating when the oil level in the engine crankcase is below the “0” mark (as measured by the dipstick) or when there is no oil at all. The driver must constantly maintain the oil level in the range from “0” to “P”, preferably closer to the last mark. To ensure the accuracy of the indicators, you should not measure them on a cold engine; let it run for 4-5 minutes in idle mode, and then check the oil level after 10 minutes.

Watch the video: technical analysis of the GAZ-53.

It is important to remember that at a speed of 60 km/h and in direct gear, the engine oil pressure sensor should show 2.5 kgf/cm², that is, 250 kPa. On a cold, not warmed-up engine, this figure is approximately 5-5.5 kgf/cm² (500-550 kPa). The minimum permissible pressure is considered to be 0.4-0.8 kgf/cm², at such values the emergency lamp lights up.

Components of the oil pump for GAZ-53

You also need to remember that short-term lighting of the warning lamp at low engine speeds (idling) is acceptable. If the oil pump is working properly, the lamp will go out when the crankshaft speed increases. If the lamp lights up at medium and high speeds, then you have serious problems with the engine and its operation should be stopped.

Appearance of the GAZ-53 engine

If the oil pump in the ZMZ-53 engine does not work, then the first to signal this will be an emergency pressure warning lamp and a dial indicator showing an emergency low pressure in the unit.

There are several ways to determine whether problems in the lubrication system are caused by the pump or other elements.